There are four commercially grown species of cotton:
Gossypium barbadense – Also known as extra-long staple (ELS) cotton. G.Barbadense is commonly known by other names such as Egyptian Cotton, Creole cotton and Supima Cotton to name just a few. The plant typically grows in tropical areas with plenty of sun and lots of rain. Originally from South America it has been adapted to grow throughout the world in favourable climates.
Gossypium hirsutum – Also known as Upland Cotton or Mexican Cotton. G.Hirsutum was originally a native of Central America, Mexico and the Caribbean. This species is the largest variety of cotton planted in the United States and is now (along with it's cross breeds, the most common variety grown worldwide.
Gossypium arboreum – G.Arboreum is otherwise know as tree cotton and is native to India, Pakistan and other tropical and subtropical regions of Africa, Europe and Asia.
Gossypium herbaceum – Also known as levant cotton, it can grow in lower rainfall areas. It is native to the sem-arid regions of sub-Saharan Africa and the Arabian Peninsula.
Organic cotton from India generally falls within one of the latter three varieties.
G. Arboreum and G.herbaceum are native to India, while the remaining species have been successfully grown in different regions of India. Selection of species to be grown organically depends upon the soil and climatic conditions. India may be the only country in the world where all four cultivated species are grown on a commercial scale. In India 45% of the cotton growing area is covered by hybrids, 30% Upland Cotton and 24.7% mostly G.Arboreum. G. Barabense & G.herbaceum are only grown in limited areas only.
Amber Co have sourced only organic cotton for it's bed linen from farmers that are able to produce long fibres >30mm.
Starting Fibre
The best sheets start with the best cotton (not the highest thread count!).
The cultivation of an organic crop requires use of non-genetically modified plants that are grown using natural fertilisers (such as compost and manure) and no pesticides. It is grown on land that has been given sufficient time (at least three years) for the removal of all toxic residues previously used on it. Organic cotton production enhances biodiversity and biological cycles.
Handling of organic crops is equally important to reduce the ecological footprint associated with storing and production of cotton items. The specialty of Indian Organic Cotton is that all the cotton is hand picked. Hand picking reduces the degree of contamination with materials such as leaves or dust. Specific selection of mature buds can also be conducted.
Products carrying the GOTS symbol have not only been grown organically but processed organically too, meaning inputs such as dyes and bleaches have met strict biodegradability and toxicity rules. Waste water is treated before it is let out into the environment thus protecting local ecosystems and communities.